逸香網(wǎng)獨(dú)家專訪怡園少莊主陳芳  2012-04-20

去年九月，筆者受香港《酒經(jīng)月刊》總編輯劉致新先生之邀，在怡園小住了幾天。感受到怡園美好的環(huán)境，嘗過了美酒，也和酒莊莊主陳進(jìn)強(qiáng)先生有過交流。但是可惜的是，陳芳少莊主剛離開，因此無緣得見。這次，由于我們逸香網(wǎng)的“發(fā)現(xiàn)中國葡萄酒”專題，網(wǎng)友們一致要求要采訪到陳芳少莊主。由于筆者一直在網(wǎng)絡(luò)上和少莊主保持聯(lián)絡(luò)，她很快就給了我答復(fù)。可惜的是她人在香港，所以這次采訪是通過E-MAIL來完成的。由于她的語言習(xí)慣，她的回答是用英文來完成，筆者在翻譯過后又將文章發(fā)給莊主再重新確認(rèn)，以求準(zhǔn)確。為方便大家參照，同時(shí)也附上少莊主原文的回答。
 

 
怡園少莊主陳芳
 
 
怡園葡萄酒更接近舊世界的風(fēng)格
 
筆者：是什么原因讓您的父親陳老先生會(huì)想要在中國建立一個(gè)葡萄酒莊？
 
陳芳：確切地說，我的爸爸沒有那么老，他剛剛過60歲而已。他建立酒莊是因?yàn)樗朐谕诵菀院竽軌蚍浅＠寺厣钤谝粋€(gè)酒莊里面。除了上述原因之外，我爸爸的一個(gè)非常好的朋友，一個(gè)法國人介紹他做葡萄酒，也鼓勵(lì)和幫助他去真正建立一個(gè)自己的酒莊。
 
Judy: Actually, my dad isn’t that old. He just turned 60. He wanted to build a winery as he thought it was quite romantic to retire and leave in a winery. On top of that, his very good friend, a French guy who introduced my dad to wine, also encouraged and assisted him to do so.
 
筆者：怡園為什么最終選址在了山西晉中地區(qū)的太谷縣？
 
陳芳：我們聘請(qǐng)了Denis Boubals教授，讓他去挑選一個(gè)在中國適合我們種植葡萄的地方。山西有非常出名的煤礦，幸運(yùn)的是，晉中沒有任何煤礦資源。山西相對(duì)比較干燥，有充足的日曬。晝夜溫差也非常大。這都是適宜葡萄生長的良好氣候條件。
 
Judy: We hired a professor, Denis Boubals, to find this location for us. Shanxi is famous for its coal mines, but luckily, Jinzhong doesn’t have any coal reserves. Shanxi is a relatively dry with abundant sunshine. The day & night-time temperature difference is quite big.
 
筆者：經(jīng)過這么多年的栽培，您認(rèn)為這個(gè)產(chǎn)地適合哪些釀酒品種的生長？
 
陳芳：現(xiàn)在，我們種植了赤霞珠、美樂、品麗珠、莫斯卡多、白詩南和莎當(dāng)妮。很難說哪種葡萄品種更適合。因?yàn)槭紫龋覀儾坏貌环N植比較多的品種，然后至少等待10到15年才能知道誰的表現(xiàn)更好。不過，從現(xiàn)在看來，赤霞珠和莎當(dāng)妮的表現(xiàn)都非常好。
 
Judy: At the moment, we tested out Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Muscat, Chenin Blanc & Chardonnay. It’s hard to say which grape varietals are suitable. First we have to plant many more other varietals & wait for at least 10-15 years to know.  So far Cab Sau & Chardonnay are doing quite well
 
筆者：這個(gè)產(chǎn)地出產(chǎn)的葡萄酒會(huì)有怎樣典型的風(fēng)格特色？
 
陳芳：我們的酒不是那種有很多果醬味道的類型。我們的酒更加優(yōu)雅和平衡。盡管我們換了一個(gè)澳大利亞的釀酒師，但是我仍然認(rèn)為我們的酒更接近于舊世界的風(fēng)格。你怎么認(rèn)為呢？你之前都試過他們。
 
Judy: Our wines aren’t big jammy kinds. We are more the elegant & balance types. Although we have changed our winemaker to an Australian guy, I still think our wines are more the old world. What do you think? You tried them before.
 
筆者：我同意您說的，怡園的酒更接近于舊世界的風(fēng)格。莊主和深藍(lán)尤其給我留下了非常深刻的印象，很有波爾多大酒的風(fēng)范。
 

 
怡園酒窖
 
堅(jiān)持精品小酒莊路線
 
筆者：怡園目前的產(chǎn)量是多少？
 
陳芳：去年，我們的產(chǎn)量是300萬瓶。我想一年賣出了200萬瓶。剩下我們都在酒窖里保存起來，延遲發(fā)售。通過這種方式，我們能保證這些葡萄酒放在消費(fèi)者餐桌上的時(shí)候已經(jīng)進(jìn)入了適飲期。
 
Judy: We are producing 3million bottles last year. I want to sell around 2 million bottles a year (and keep it this way, the rest is to keep in the inventory. That way, we could postpone the launch date of our wines and only launch the wines when they are more ready do drink. (Do you know what I meant?)
 
筆者：怡園走的是精品小酒莊的路線，其生產(chǎn)能滿足市場的需求嗎？
 
陳芳：這個(gè)很難說。我們持續(xù)在生產(chǎn)葡萄酒，但是我猜我們不能完全滿足市場的需求。不過，我寧愿讓怡園保持這種方式。
 
Judy: It’s hard to say. We continue to run out of wine and I guess we aren’t able to supply the demand. But I prefer to keep Grace the way it’s.
 
筆者：我知道并不是很多地方在賣怡園的酒，那么怡園的產(chǎn)品主要在哪些渠道進(jìn)行銷售？你們對(duì)經(jīng)銷商是否有很嚴(yán)格的挑選條件？還會(huì)尋找新的合作伙伴嗎？
 
陳芳：我們?cè)谌袊?個(gè)經(jīng)銷商，是我們的直接代理銷售渠道。當(dāng)我們選擇合作伙伴的時(shí)候，我們會(huì)非常嚴(yán)格。我們選擇經(jīng)銷商最重要的一條，就是要求對(duì)方要和我們一樣具備長遠(yuǎn)的眼光，建立并維護(hù)我們的品牌形象，盡管這樣會(huì)犧牲短期的利益。我們大多數(shù)合作伙伴已經(jīng)和我們一起合作了超過十年，包括我們的供應(yīng)商。我們現(xiàn)在依然會(huì)保持開放合作的心態(tài)，但是不會(huì)很積極地再去尋找新的合作伙伴。
 
Judy: We have 5 distributors and our own direct sales channels.We are very selective when it comes to choosing a partner. Most important criteria for us is that we share the long-term vision – building and safe guarding the brand, willing to scarify short-term gain. Most of our partners have been working with us for more than 10 years (including our suppliers). We are always open to discussion, but not actively seeking new distributors.
 

 
怡園深藍(lán)
 
犧牲市場，贏得尊敬
 
筆者：能否給我們回顧一下怡園發(fā)展過程中的兩個(gè)您認(rèn)為最重要的年份，這兩個(gè)年份分別發(fā)生了什么事情讓您記憶猶新？
 
陳芳：2003和2007年對(duì)我來說是兩個(gè)非常重要的年份。2003年，我們第一次將葡萄酒投放向市場。當(dāng)時(shí)我們?cè)庥隽舜煺邸Ｎ矣肋h(yuǎn)都記得將一個(gè)新的產(chǎn)品介紹給客戶，并且被人們接受是多么的困難。2007年是我們酒莊成立10周年，但是，這一年的天氣非常糟糕，我們從來沒遇到過這么糟糕的天氣。那一年，我們只生產(chǎn)了餐酒。盡管對(duì)于市場來說，我們做了很大的犧牲，但是我們贏得了尊敬。
 
Judy: 2003, 2007 & 2008 are the three most important years for me.2003 was the first time we launched the wine in the market. It was such a failure and I always remember how difficult it was to introduce a new wine to client and be accepted.2007 was our 10th anniversary, it was also the worst weather we ever encountered. That year we only made table wines. Although it was a big sacrifice on the financial aspect, we gained respect from the market.
 
筆者：在中國有一些酒莊以低價(jià)在國際上去參加各種評(píng)選，在獲獎(jiǎng)之后，就提高其市場售價(jià)。而據(jù)我所知，怡園的高端產(chǎn)品也不超過600元的零售價(jià)，有許多人給您提過建議漲價(jià)您都拒絕了，為什么？
 
陳芳：我們最貴的葡萄酒的零售價(jià)格是488元，就這樣，我都認(rèn)為已經(jīng)非常貴了。我想做性價(jià)比高的葡萄酒，這可以讓更多的人能夠享用到怡園的葡萄酒。我相信，只有這個(gè)方式可以長期地去做一個(gè)生意。我們的消費(fèi)者就像我們的朋友。你不能誤導(dǎo)你的朋友。而這種方式也是我們的一個(gè)長遠(yuǎn)發(fā)展策略。
 
Judy: Our most expensive wine is selling at RMB$488. I think it’s already pretty expensive. I want to do price-to-value wines, which are able to compete internationally. I believe this is the only way to build a long-term business. Our clients are like our friends. You can’t mislead your friends, and expect that could be your growth strategy.
 
葡萄酒的美妙在于多樣性
 
筆者：目前進(jìn)口葡萄酒在中國市場來勢(shì)兇猛，您長期生活在香港，我也經(jīng)常在您的微博上看您品嘗各國好酒，反而對(duì)怡園的酒比較少具體提及。您怎么看待進(jìn)口葡萄酒與國產(chǎn)葡萄酒之間的關(guān)系？
 
陳芳：我不想把這個(gè)做成一種銷售。在網(wǎng)上談?wù)撎噔鶊@的事情，人們會(huì)認(rèn)為那是我在做廣告（呵呵）。我愛葡萄酒的一個(gè)原因就是因?yàn)樗亩鄻有浴＝裉欤液戎袊钠咸丫疲魈欤矣挚梢赃x擇意大利的。有時(shí)，我想選擇輕酒體，更新鮮清爽的干紅，有時(shí)，我選擇白葡萄酒，有時(shí)我又會(huì)選擇香檳。這正是葡萄酒的美妙之處，你覺得呢？因此，我不認(rèn)為進(jìn)口酒和國產(chǎn)酒是一個(gè)硬幣的兩面。進(jìn)口酒從某種意義上幫助國產(chǎn)酒做得更好。而這對(duì)中國消費(fèi)者來說，是一個(gè)很好的消息。
 
Judy: I don’t want to be too hard sell. To talk about Grace Vineyard all the time, people will think that I’m advertising .The reason I love wine is because of its diversity. I could have a Chinese wine today, tomorrow, I could choose an Italian. Sometimes I want to have a lighter & fresher wine, sometimes I prefer white, sometimes I want Champagne. That’s the beauty of wine, don’t you think. Therefore, I don’t think imported wines and local wines are at opposite ends. Imported wines definitely help to push local wines to do better. Therefore, it’s only a good news for consumers.
 
筆者：如果有消費(fèi)者讓您推薦一款性價(jià)比高的葡萄酒，您會(huì)推薦進(jìn)口酒還是國產(chǎn)酒？另外，您一般什么時(shí)候會(huì)在酒莊，什么時(shí)候會(huì)在香港？
 
陳芳：我每個(gè)月都會(huì)去酒莊。夏天，我會(huì)花更多的時(shí)間在酒莊里。說實(shí)話，我覺得我的人生就像在一個(gè)行李箱里面，我總是到處飛來飛去。旅行幫助我有開放的視野。如果不是因?yàn)槲覀兊暮⒆觽儯腋敢獍盐掖蟛糠謺r(shí)間都花在酒莊里。
 
Judy: I go to the winery every month. In the summer, I spend a lot of time at the winery. To be honest, I feel that I’m living out of a suit case as I travel all the time. Traveling helps me to stay open-minded. I would love to stay full-time at the winery if it’s not for my kids.
 
堅(jiān)持長跑習(xí)慣
 
筆者：看您的微博，知道您保持著長跑的生活習(xí)慣，那么，您堅(jiān)持長跑多久了？為什么會(huì)熱衷于長跑這項(xiàng)體育鍛煉？
 
陳芳：我在四年以前開始長跑。我要求自己每天要跑10公里，并且把這個(gè)作為一種規(guī)律。也是直到最近一年，這才成為我真正的習(xí)慣。放棄其實(shí)很容易。但是我覺得，我開始一樣?xùn)|西，沒有完成就去做其它項(xiàng)目，這很不好。因此，我想做一些事情來訓(xùn)練我自己。長跑就是一種挺好的方式。你堅(jiān)持你自己想要的，你告訴自己要繼續(xù)。我認(rèn)為每件事都需要訓(xùn)練。你能訓(xùn)練你的身體，你能訓(xùn)練你的頭腦。
 
Judy: I started 4 years ago. I signed up for 10K run and started to practice regularly. It was until the recent one year that it has truly become my habit and passion.I tend to give up easily. I’d start something without finishing and move on to the next project. It’s not good. Therefore, I want to do something to train myself. Long distance running is exactly that. You keep on wanting to quit, you keep telling yourself to continue. I think everything is about training. You can train your body, you can train your mind。

 
培養(yǎng)下一代的葡萄酒興趣
 
筆者：怡園是一項(xiàng)家族的事業(yè)，您的女兒現(xiàn)在對(duì)葡萄酒有興趣嗎？您是否會(huì)有意識(shí)地培養(yǎng)她對(duì)于葡萄酒的愛好？
 
陳芳：我不能說我的女兒們對(duì)葡萄酒感興趣，但是至少她們對(duì)葡萄酒不會(huì)感到陌生。她們每年都去酒莊，她們熟悉釀酒的過程，也認(rèn)識(shí)葡萄的品種。她們經(jīng)常看到大人們品嘗葡萄酒。人們總是喜歡他們熟悉的事情。這是自然天性。如果你熟悉一些事情，你自然就比別人做得更好。因此，我比較早地讓我的女兒們接觸到葡萄酒。我認(rèn)為，在葡萄酒這個(gè)領(lǐng)域，和她們的朋友相比，她們一定已經(jīng)走在前面了。當(dāng)然，我也會(huì)有意識(shí)地培養(yǎng)她們對(duì)于葡萄酒的興趣。
 
Judy: I can’t say that my girls are interested in wine, but at least they are not strangers to wines. They go to the winery every year. They are familiar with the process, as well as the grape varieties. They see us drink all the time. People like things which they are familiar with. It’s human nature. You are familiar with something, it’s likely you would do better than others. Therefore, I introduce my girls to wines early on. I think compared to their friends, they definitely have a head start. To answer your second question, of course I’m trying to cultivate their interest
 
凝聚團(tuán)隊(duì)的秘訣
 
筆者：我有幸去過怡園，并且在里面小住過幾天，對(duì)于怡園的感受很美好。我身邊的朋友也因?yàn)槲覍懙挠斡浂矚g上了怡園。當(dāng)然，怡園的酒也很讓人稱道。我知道，您的團(tuán)隊(duì)是一個(gè)很國際化的團(tuán)隊(duì)。您是有什么秘訣把這么多來自五湖四海的人凝聚在一起，讓他們?yōu)橹粋€(gè)共同的目標(biāo)而努力？
 
陳芳：我認(rèn)為有兩個(gè)原因：第一，我們?cè)谧鲆粋€(gè)偉大的事業(yè)——做中國頂級(jí)的葡萄酒。同樣的目標(biāo)，同樣的熱情。每個(gè)人都喜歡和優(yōu)秀的團(tuán)隊(duì)合作。我們真的在朝著我們的目標(biāo)努力。我認(rèn)為我們是一群瘋狂的夢(mèng)想家。第二，能凝聚這么多優(yōu)秀的人，我覺得這是我的幸運(yùn)。我無法向你形容我是多么幸運(yùn)，有一個(gè)全力支持和信任我的團(tuán)隊(duì)。
 
Judy: I guess two things:
1) We set out to do great things – producing top-quality wines in China – this draws people who share the same passion. Everyone likes to associate with a winning team. We are really doing what we claim. I think we are just a group of crazy dreamers.
2) Luck. I can’t tell you how lucky I’m. To have a supporting team, to have a team that is willing to believe me.
 
筆者：對(duì)于怡園的發(fā)展，您的終極目標(biāo)是什么？
 
陳芳：我希望在中國不同的地方釀造不同風(fēng)格的葡萄酒，而且我旗下的每個(gè)酒莊都有自己的品牌和自己的團(tuán)隊(duì)。而且也會(huì)繼續(xù)保持和怡園酒莊相當(dāng)?shù)哪戤a(chǎn)量。在我們的年會(huì)上，每個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)都帶來他們最好的葡萄酒，這將是多么有趣的一件事情？！
 
Judy: To make different style wines from different places in China. Each of them would have its own brand and own team. Keep it more or less the size of Grace or smaller. Each team would bring their best wine to compete during our company’s annual dinner. Wouldn’t that be fun?